Weingut Winter - Rheinhessen - Dittelsheimer Riesling Trocken Kalkstein

Dittelsheimer Riesling Trocken Kalkstein 2009;

Robert Parker, februari 2011,
88/100
The Winter 2009 Dittelsheimer Riesling trocken Kalkstein – coming largely from the Leckerberg vineyard – exhibits considerably more stuffing (at 13.5% alcohol) than its generic counterpart. Palpably extract-rich; with faint fruit skin chew yet an underlying satiny texture; and finishing admirably with herbal and coffee notes, it offers a distinct alternative to the aforementioned, more charming intro-level Winter Riesling, which is frankly the wine I would prefer to drink, both now and, I suspect, even over the next several years. But give this wine 12-18 months and perhaps I’ll be proven wrong about its potential (and its author proven correct). “The better the quality, the more shut-down the wines are at this stage,” insisted Winter at our September meeting, but I in fact found his top, single-vineyard bottlings easier to befriend.

Stefan Winter – for an introduction to whose still relatively little-known, not quite decade-old domaine consult my report in issue 185 – finished harvesting his 2009 crop in the first days of November, preferring as he jokingly puts it to “maximize skin contact on the vine” (but then to press the grapes directly after picking). This vintage’s relatively low-acid Winter Scheurebe still had 40 grams of residual sugar when I encountered it in September, although he was hoping that its fermentation would progress – if not all the way to, then at least considerably further – in the direction of dryness.

Jancis Robinson, 4 maart 2010,
16/20
Drink 2011-2014

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